Michael Jarrell

Sunni: [laughing] I think that scares people who don't seriously cook—the swearing, I mean. They don't grok that it's a crucial part of the creative process.

Michael: It is often a necessity. I couldn't see myself saying, Gosh! That rack in the oven sure was hot, and look at the mark! There's no satisfaction in that! And it blows off steam and helps avoid situations that could easily become stabby, given the numbers of sharp implements around. [laughs] It's all part and parcel of the passion of the kitchen.

Sunni: So, Michael, what would you say is the best meal you've had in your life thus far? And what made it so great?

Michael: I'm not sure I've had a best meal so far. Lots of best dishes at various places. The onion soup at the Peak Restaurant in Hong Kong, the clam chowder at the old Lindy's Steak House in Hong Kong, the chili dogs at the original Dog House, Jr in Gulfport, Mississippi. If I had to pick any single meal, though ... [pauses] it might well be the Gentilly Giant at the old Fitzgerald's Restaurant in New Orleans. It was a garlic bread trencher filled with the best New Orleans fried seafood you could ask for. Lake trout, stuffed blue crab claws, stuffed shrimp and crab, a variety of oysters and more, plus a big bowl of their famous turtle soup. Man! The flavors just screamed New Orleans and everything on the table was fresh caught. The best thing about that meal, other than the location, was that it was my first visit to New Orleans with my wife and it was on our honeymoon. We got there early and pretty much had the place to ourselves. The view of Lake Pontchartrain from the dining room was great and the company couldn't be beat. Sad to say Fitzgerald's burned down a few years ago and for some reason they never rebuilt. Another fine old culinary institution has been lost to us, likely the victim of all the big mega corp chains.

Sunni: Oh gosh, I'm so hungry now! Your answer highlights a very important aspect of enjoying food that a lot of people seem to have forgotten—atmosphere. Good company can exalt the humblest diner's fare, and conversely, bad company or negative emotions can ruin a five-star meal. Eating is as much a social activity as an act of sustenance, but I think the art of atmosphere is being lost. Or maybe I'm expecting too much from home meals served to energetic children and other busy people who just want to eat and move on to the next activity ...

Michael: I have in-laws who eat to exist. There's no joy in their cookery or in their eating. I have always found that rather sad. Eating even the simplest meals has its roots way back in the caves. It was a major event then and even now we have created elaborate methods of eating. Everything from a fondue party to a state dinner can be traced back to those original get-togethers around the family and tribal fires. Food, atmosphere, and company all combine to draw people closer. It may well be one of the most important activities we humans have developed. Look at the declines in our present-day society and you'll see that more people aren't eating together. That's a telling thing.

Sunni: Very telling. Okay, just one more food question—for now, anyway, I make no promises about 10 minutes from now! [laughs]—and then we'll get back to freedom. What's the most useful trick or technique you learned in chef training?

Michael: There are so many things that you learn that are useful, but I would have to say the one I use the most is gauging the doneness of meat by touch. It's a really useful skill if you're someone who likes hunks of meat.