Michael Jarrell

Sunni: Here's something MAL and I have talked about a fair amount that's kind of related to state-based regulations. We've all seen items with labels that say something like aged X years. The idea is that that amount of time is essential to developing desired flavors and/or textures ... but what if the item develops them fully before the time is up? For example, 5-year cheddar: what if a cheese-maker samples his cheddar, and its flavor is mature at, say, 4 years and 8 months. Would it be unethical, or misleading in some way, to sell it as 5-year cheese, when it's already got all the characteristics that would put it in that category? After all, the age is really just a rough guide to maturity, just like with people ...

Michael: I don't have an issue with subjective grading. Sometimes that maturity is just like a game of horseshoes and close is good enough. It goes back to being a trust issue. I have to trust that the cheese maker, distiller, or vintner is qualified enough to make the decision to release the product when it's reached the peak they've set for it.

Sunni: Much is made of how difficult it is to get a successful restaurant going these days. What do you think is at the core of the challenge? Have you ever been part of that process?

Michael: Thankfully, I have yet to be a part of that process. It's often nightmarish for everyone involved and takes all the love out of what should be a happy event. Other than funding the main impediment is, as always, government. A restaurant has too many masters. All the local permissions, licensing, and regulations are bad enough, but you also have county, state and federal regulations to contend with and heaven help the person who fails to dot the right i. If you manage to pay all the graft—er, license fees—then you still have to contend with all of them on a weekly, monthly, and yearly basis. Frankly, I'd rather deal with the mafia. They're much more consistent and fair.

Sunni: [laughs] Too true, Michael! Back to you now. I'd guess that many people have a stereotype of a chef as being someone who has a refined palate, and likes the top-flight stuff, like caviar and filet mignon. So it might surprise some folks to learn that you have two blogs that focus on soda—one's a soda pop blog and the other focuses on root beer—and yet another blog that focuses on road food. Are you an atypical chef or is all that stuff on cable TV just to perpetuate the chef mystique? [laughs]

Michael: [laughs] Just remember that one of the top chefs on television today is Paula Deen, a gray-haired lady who fries chicken and serves greens and mashed potatoes!

Sunni: [laughing] Well, see, I just gave away my ignorance—I'm relying on what I read on the food blogs I like, because I haven't seen any of those programs and only recognize names of the old greats, like Julia Child and James Beard.

Michael: She was probably one of the first professionals that any chef can remember watching when young. Between her and Graham Kerr a lot of us were doomed to serve the cause of cookery! I don't think I'm atypical at all. At the end of the day most chefs go for meat and potatoes food. Now, that meat and potatoes might be the staples of China, Italy, France or wherever, but it's rarely the upper-end recipes. The guys and girls on TV are cooking for the audience and teaching individual dishes; I like to think of them as video cookbooks for the masses. As for soda and root beers, they're my downfall! I love the sweetness, but the complexities in their flavors are wonderful ... or terrible, depending on the drink. Cheerwine is a delight and you cannot beat Capt'n Eli's root beer from Maine. I'd take those over a bottle of Kristal, any day. As for mystique, there's really not a lot of mystery coming out of a 120 degree kitchen, just lots of sweat, swearing, and food.